Cairo

Cairo

Few cities in the world boast a history as rich and varied as Cairo's. Where else can you see 6,000-year-old pyramids, the Sphinx, Roman ruins, catacombs and even a camel marketexquisitely carved mosques and fortresses from the city's heyday as the cultural center of the Islamic world? All this plus a vibrant political and social culture, noisy, bustling bazaars packed into ancient, jumbled streets and the city's pervasive aromas (delicious, evocative and occasionally repulsive).

Though just a few miles from Memphis - the capital of ancient Egypt - and the pyramids at Giza, most of Cairo dates from the Islamic period, and today the city remains the most important center of Sunni Muslim scholarship in the world.

Must-see places include Memphis and the pyramids of Saqqara, the Egyptian museum (containing an outstanding collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts), the Islamic Museum with its works of art from throughout the Islamic world, the city's oldest bazaar - the Khan el Khalily - and the fascinating streets of Old Cairo.
And, of course, you simply can't go to Cairo without visiting Giza's wondrous pyramids and Sphinx. Built between 2600 and 2520 BC by the kings of the 4th Dynasty, the complex is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

Ramadan is probably the best time to savor the full range of traditional entertainment -- the impromptu puppet shows, the pavement story-tellers, the singers, the coffee houses, and the baladi dancers. In the Khan Al-Khalili and Ghuriya areas, Ramadan is a nightly and night-long carnival.

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History

While the City of Cairo sprang from the foundations of a "recent" town, by Egyptian historical standards, it is no wonder that this location developed the foremost Egyptian city. With one of the few river crossings, the area around Cairo was originally settled in Paleolithic times and later saw the development of Neolithic trading communities.
It was Menes, the legendary first King-God of the Dynastic period who united upper and lower Egypt and established his capital at Memphis. It has been suggested that Memphis already existed upon Menes arrival, but there is no evidence to support this theory. What is known is that this city, with its ruins 15 miles south of current Cairo, was a dominant influence throughout most of Egypt's pharaonic history. Near Memphis (nine miles north and on the opposite side of the Nile) was the contemporary religious center of On located in the community the Greeks called Heliopolis, not to be confused with the nearby modern suburb of Cairo by the same name.
In 525 BC, the invading Persians conquered Egypt and built a strategic fort north of Memphis called Babylon-on-the-Nile. From here, the Persians controlled Egypt until the country was captured by Alexander the Great in 332 BC. During the Greek period, the fort of Babylon held little importance, but after the Roman conquest, it regained prominence as a stronghold because of its strategic location guarding the Roman trade routes. The Roman general Trajan repaired the old Red Sea Canal, originally built by the pharaohs, which allowed vessels to sail up the Red Sea, turn west toward Babylon, and then down the Nile to the Mediterranean.
Throughout the Roman period, Fort Babylon continued to be a dominant influence in the region and a Christian community grew up around it. It soon became a prominent centre for the new religion. It was here that St. Mark lived, and where St. Peter sent his greetings from the sister church in Rome. But in the later Roman period, the Coptic church of Egypt grew apart from most of the world's Christianity. This split resulted in unrest and often persecution of the Coptics. Hence, when the Arab Muslims led by Amr arrived in 640 AD, Babylon was an easy target and was quickly captured. Soon, all of Egypt was in the hands of the Islamic Arabs.
Legend has it that when Amr departed the Babylon area to lay siege to Alexandria, he left his tent standing in the tent camp next to Babylon. Upon his return, the tent was still standing and a dove had built a nest in it. So it was here that Amr built his Mosque, the first in Egypt. Around the new Mosque, called the Fustat or al-Fustat al-Misr (the Camp of Egypt), the City of the Tents and the original Muslim capital of Egypt grew up from his original tent encampment. This camp was divided into khittat, or districts which originally divided the various Arab tribes that made up Amr's army.
Throughout ancient times, Egypt has been one of the most important trade routes for the world and so it was from that, like the archaic cities that preceded Fustat, this new city also prospered from all manner of goods which where transshipped to the wealthy markets in New Europa. The people also developed their own markets in spices, textiles and perfumes, which were legendary throughout the world. Beginning as a haphazard conglomeration of tents and huts, Fustat grew into a sophisticated commercial center where its residents enjoyed great wealth. They built high rise houses with rooftop gardens, public baths modeled on those of the Romans (but smaller, earning the name al-hammamat al-far, or mouse baths). Their architecture grew in both splendor and magnitude, and they even built covered streets to protect themselves from the sun.

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Getting Around

The most common way of getting around Cairo is the open horse-drawn cab. These can be obtained at any hotel or station, or hailed in the street. Closed cabs can be ordered in advance. On all journeys, price should be agreed in advance.

During the mid 1800's, the khedive embarked on laying an extensive clockwork-powered tram network throughout the city. While not yet completed, trams run along most of the main streets and to all tourist destinations (except the Citadel and the Mosque Qait Bey). There are separate carriages for men and women, and New Europan tourists are advised to adhere to this rule to avoid embarrasment and giving offence to the native Cairenes.

The tramline to Giza was only completed under British rule. Prior to that, donkeys were the most common means of transport for those tourists wishing to visit the Pyramids.

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Where to stay

Shepheard's Hotel

The Grand Continental

The Hotel de Paris

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Sights of the City

Mosques and Islamic Monuments

Mosque of Amr Ibn El-Aas (Hambro Mosque)

The mosque of Amr Ibn al-Aas, founded in 642 AD (21 H) and said to be built on the site of Amr Ibn el-As's tent at Fustat, is the oldest existing mosque, not just in Cairo, but the entire African Continent. Located north of the Roman Fortress of Babylon, it is actually on the edge of Fustat, the temporary city founded by Amr, and was an Islamic learning center long before El-Azhar Mosque. It could hold up to 5,000 students. The mosque incorporates elements of Greek and Roman buildings, and has 150 white marble columns and three minarets. Simple in design, its present plan consists of an open sahn (court) surrounded by four riwaqs, the largest being the Qiblah riwaq. There are a number of wooden plaques bearing Byzantine carvings of leaves, and a partially enclosed column is believed to have been miraculously transported from Mecca on the orders of Mohammed himself. In one corner is a spring which the Mohemmedans believe communicates with the holy well of Zem Zem at Mecca. Its current form is derived primarily from a renovation in 1798 by Murad Bey.

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Mohammad Ali (Alabaster) Mosque
Mohammad Ali Mosque

Designed by the Greek architect Yussuf Bushnaq, The Mohammad Ali (Alabaster) Mosque in the Citadel was begun in 1830 (finished in 1857) in the Ottoman style by Mohammad Ali Pasha, ruler of Egypt, and founder of the country's last dynasty of Khedives and Kings. The mosque is the Tomb of Mohammad Ali and is known as the Alabaster Mosque because of the extensive use of this fine material brought from Beni Suef. Its two slender 270 foot minarets are unusual for Cairo. From the arcaded courtyard, visitors have a magnificent view across the city to the pyramids in Giza. Just off the courtyard is the vast prayer hall with an Ottoman style dome which is 170 feet high. The parapet to the southwest offers a good view of the Sultan Hassan and Ibn Tulun Mosques and of Cairo itself.

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An-Nasir Mohammed Mosque

Just across from the Mohammed Ali Mosque, the An-Nasir Mohammed Mosque is the best preserved Mameluke buildings in the city and was once the principle mosque within the Citadel. Constructed in 1335 AD by Sultan an-Nasir Mohammed as a congregational mosque, it has two unique minarets topped in a pincushion design with glazed faience decoration and is all that remains of the Sultan's massive building program within the Citadel.
There are two entrances to the mosque. One entrance was used by the soldiers, and is in the form of a trilobate arch, while the other, used exclusively by the Sultan, has an inscribed arch decorated with stalactites. Within the mosque, there was once marble panels, but these were removed by Sultan Selim I and sent to Istanbul in 1517 AD. Within the arcaded courtyard, many of the columns were derived from pharaonic, Roman and Byzantine buildings, but seem to fit together suprisingly well as a whole. The restored qiblah has a large dome, and the wooden ceiling and stalactites make this mosque well worth a visit.

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Suleyman Pasha Mosque

The Suleyman Pasha Mosque is also located in the Citadel. Sometimes called the Sariya el-Gabal Mosque after the Fatimid saint Sayyid Sariya whose tomb is located at the eastern end of the surrounding wall, this mosque was built by an Ottoman governor named Suleyman Pasha in 1528 AD. It is both Egypt's first cupolated Ottoman mosque and its most beautiful example of this style. It is located in a small, walled garden which is entered by way of a courtyard with arcades topped by small cupolas. The single minaret is tall and slender and hence of traditional Ottoman style. Within the prayer hall, there is a large central cupola and three demi-cupolas, all richly decorated with floral and geometric motifs, and the fine marbled mihrab shows Mameluke influence. Here, the inscribed names of God, Muhammad, Abu Bakr, Umar, Uthman and Ali serve to remind the Sunni sect of their religious heritage. Several other rooms are surmounted by cupolas and decorated with 19th century nave designs.

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Al-Azhar Mosque and University

The Al-Azhar Mosque (the most blooming), established in 972 AD (361 H) shortly after the founding of Cairo itself, was originally designed by the Fatimid general Jawhar El-Sequili (Gawhara Qunqubay, Gawhar al-Sakkaly) and built on the orders of Caliph Muezz Li-Din Allah. Located in the center of an area teaming with the most beautiful Islamic monuments from the 10th century, it was called "Al-Azhar" after Fatama al-Zahraa, daughter of the Prophet Mohammed. It imitated both the Amr Ibn El-As and Ibn Tulun mosques. The first Fatimid monument in Egypt, the Azhar was both a meeting place for Shi'a students and through the centuries, it has remained a focal point of the famous university which has grown up around it. It was under Yaqoub Ibn Cals that the mosque became a teaching institute.
This is the oldest university in the world, where the first lecture was delivered in 975 AD. Today the university built around the Mosque is the most prestigious of Muslim schools, and its students are highly esteemed for their traditional training. Ten thousand students once studied here. In addition to the religious studies, modern schools of medicine, science and foreign languages have also been added.

Architecturally, the mosque is a palimpsest of all styles and influences that have passed through Egypt, with a large part of it having been renovated by Abdarrahman Khesheda. There are five very fine minarets with small balconies and intricately carved columns. It has six entrances, with the main entrance being the 18th Century Bab el-Muzayini (barber's gate), where students were once shaved. This gate leads into a small courtyard and then into the Aqbaughawiya Medersa to the left, which was built in 1340 AD and serves as a library. On the right is the Taybarsiya Medersa built in 1310 AD, which has a very fine mihrab. The Qaitbay Entrance was built in 1469 AD and has a minaret built atop. Inside is a large courtyard that is 275x112 feet which is surrounded with porticos supported by over three hundred marble columns of ancient origin. To the east is the prayer hall which is larger than the courtyard and has several rows of columns. The Kufic inscription on the interior of the mihrab is original, though the mihrab has been modified several times, and behind is a hall added in 1753 AD by Abd el-Rahman Katkhuda. At the northern end is the tomb medersa of Jawhar El-Sequili.

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Ibn Tulun Mosque

Built by Ahmed Ibn Tulun in 879 AD (265 H), the Ibn Tulun Mosque in the Sayyedah Zeinab district has an atmosphere of tranquility unlike that of any other mosque in the city. Ahmed Ibn Tulun was sent to govern Cairo by the Abbysid Caliph in Baghdad, which explains the Mesopotamian influence. It is the oldest original mosque and the largest in Egypt. It incorporates a number of unique features, such as the external spiral staircase of the unusual minaret (the only one of its type in Egypt) which is similar to the famous Samarra Mosque in Mesopotamia. Its design is simple, consisting of an open sahn with an ablution fountain in the center, surrounded by four riwaqs, the largest being the Qiblah riwaq. There are five naves on the Qiblah side (the side facing Mecca), and two on the remaining sides. The building style follows that of the Abbysid type, characterized by pilasters on which slightly pointed arches are applied, and which have a slight inward curve at the bottom. The rectangular building surrounding the sahn has a rampart walk and high walled additions (Ziyyadahs) are found on the south, west and north. Within the prayer niche, or mihrab, constructed of marble and gilted mosaic and bordered by four columns with leaf like crowns, is a wonderful pulpit, or minbar of the 13th (Mameluke) century origin. Many of the 13th It was used as a military hospital by Ibrahim Pasha during the middle of the 19th century and was more recently used as a salt warehouse and beggar's prison.

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Sarghatmish Medersa

The Sarghatmish Medersa was built in 1356 AD by Emir Seif ad-Din Sarghatmish and lies against the northwest wall of the Ibn Tulun Mosque. There is an open courtyard that is formed by four iwan that are surrounded by study rooms. There is a mausoleum that is situated next to the iwan. In front of the medersa are a mosque and mausoleum of El-Khodari that were built in 1767 AD.

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Complex of Sultan Qala'un

The complex of Sultan Qala'un was built along the Shari' el-Muizz (street) in 1284 AD by Sultan el-Mansur Qala'um. It comprises a mosque-medersa, a mausoleum and a mauristan (hospital). The complex is the earliest example of a new Syrian style of those times, and displays typical Mameluke architecture. The exterior windows are columned and reminiscent of Gothic style, which Qala'un was certainly familiar with from the Crusader's churches. The entrance design is of interlaced polychrome masonry ablaq, while the square bottom and middle stories of the minaret reflect the Syrian design. This opens into a long corridor with its original beam and coffered ceiling, from which, to the left is the mosque-medersa, and to the right, opposite the medersa, is the mausoleum. The mauristan was located at the end of the corridor.
The madrasa opens into a courtyard with a liwan at either end. The sanctuary is on the east end and has three aisles with classical columns and arched clerestory highly reminiscent of Syrian basilican churches. So is the mihrab with its glass mosaics.
The mausoleum opposite the medersa has been called the most beautiful building in Cairo. The orientation of the mausoleum's interior, like that of the madrasa, is not the same as the exterior facade, which is aligned to the outside street. Inside, the octagonal shape allows for the qiblah wall itself to face Mecca, which is evident from the varying thickness of the exterior wall revealed in the window encasements. The entrance courtyard is shielded from the corridor by a screen, which together with the facade, has intricate designs in stucco. Inside, the soaring dome is lighted by intense color from glass set in plaster and carved with arabesque designs. Marble strips, panels of polychrome stone, gilding and the painted coffered ceiling, along with the richly decorative mihrab with its hood decorated with polychrome marble and its niche divided into segments of mosaic inlay and blind arcades provide an insight to Mameluke decorative arts.

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Al-Nasir Muhammad Madrasa/Mausoleum

The madrasa and mausoleum of al-Nasir Muhammad was built by one of Sultan Qala'un's five sons, al-Nasir Muhammad, who ruled Egypt at various times between 1293 and 1340 AD. This was the high point of Mamluk culture and art. This complex, built in 1295 AD, has the first cruciform designed medersa in Cairo, but the complex is similar overall to his father's nearby complex. The Gothic style entrance was pillaged from a 13th century church of St John of Acre during the crusades, and may likely be the finest example of this style in the world. While little remains of the building itself, the four liwans are used, one each, for the four schools of Sunni jurisprudence. The minaret was probably built at the same time and using the same workmen who restored the Qala'un complex, reflecting a similar style.

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Sultan Barquq Complex

Next door to the al-Nasir complex and near the Sultan Qala'un complex is the Sultan Barquq complex, built in 1384 AD by the first "tower" or Burgi Mameluke sultan who ruled from 1382 until 1399 AD. This complex includes a cruciform medersa, a khanqa which offered living quarters for the Sufi mystics, and a tomb of one of the sultan's daughters. Even though of late date, the structure continues the traditions of the early Mameluke style. The facade has a distinctive stone entrance of black and white marble, a plain cupola, narrow recessed panels that frame the windows and an octagonal minaret with three balconies. The offset entrance has bronze plated doors inlaid with polygonal silver designs, and Barquq's name appears on a central star. Within is a square chamber which is linked to a courtyard by a vaulted, bending corridor. Within the courtyard is a central fountain surrounded by four liwan with almost symmetrical facades. The ceiling of the qiblah wall is supported by four porphyry columns quarried along the Red Sea coast during pharaonic times. A door next to the north liwan leads to the tomb chamber with its marbled floors, walls of various colors, and painted ceiling. Latticed and stained glass windows, along with ornate wooden stalactites form the corners of the tomb.

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Kamilya Medersa

Most of the original Kamilya Medersa is gone, except for the monumental entrance and the west liwan, having been replaced by more modern buildings. However, this medersa built by Sultan el-Kamil in 1225 is the second largest in the world after that of Zinki in Damascus. During the Mameluke period, this structure inspired some of the finest works of Cairene urban architecture.

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El-Aqmar Mosque (Gray Mosque)

Within the brass and copper merchant's district you can find the El-Aqmar, or Gray Mosque, built in 1125 AD. This is one of the few surviving examples of Fatimid architecture. The interior is almost original, though the minaret is not. Its name, meaning moonlit, is derived from the pale stone used in its construction. The Fatimids, intending a long rule, abandoned the earlier use of brick and stucco in favor of stone. Hence, the structure is innovative as one of the first to employ a stone facade, and the stalactite decorations in recesses on either side of the entrance are the earliest examples of this popular style which would be used extensively by the later Mamelukes. Above the entrance there is a typical Fatimid keel-arch with niche ribbing, also used here for the first time, with a very fine medallion set into the niche. Again, we find the typical structure such that the exterior facade aligns with that of its physical world, while the interior reflects the religious world, using wall thickness to align the qibla wall with the direction of Mecca.

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Suleyman Aga El-Silahdar Mosque

The Suleyman Aga El-Silahdar Mosque and "Sabil" dating from 1839 AD comprise a sabil, medersa and mosque, with a single facade overlooking the street. It is Turkish in design, but the rounded, inscribed marble facade of the sabil conforms to no particular style. The canopy surmounting the complex is decorated in relief, but it is really the pencil like minaret which catches the visitor's attention.

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Sultan Hassan Mosque & Madrasa
Sultan Hassan Mosque

The Sultan Hassan Mosque and madrasa (School) is considered stylistically the most compact and unified of all Cairo monuments. The building was constructed for Sultan Hassan bin Mohammad bin Qala'oun in 1256 AD as a mosque and religious school for all sects. It was designed so that each of the four main Sunni sects (orthodox Muslim, or Sunni rites, consisting of Shafite, Malikite, Hanefte and Hanbalite) has its own school while sharing the mosque. The cornices, the entrance, and the monumental staircase are particularly noteworthy.
The madrasa was originally introduced to Egypt by Saladin to suppress non-orthodox Muslim sects. There is a difference in congregational as opposed to Madrasa style Mosques such as the Sultan Hassan. While some congregational Mosques have been used as schools, those designed for that purpose generally have smaller courtyards (Sahn) and the buildings are more vertical, allowing for classroom space.
Many consider the Sultan Hassan Mosque to be the most outstanding Islamic monument in Egypt. It is of true Bahri Mameluke origin, built of stone, and while it is entirely different in design, it shares a "boldness" with the Ibn Tulun Mosque. There is no architectural indulgence here, but rather self confidence in its clarity of execution and restraint. In allowing separate schools for the four Sunni rites, the Sultan Hassan is based on a classical cruciform plan, meaning that the Sahn opens from each of its sides into a separate liwan, which is an enormous vaulted hall, each serving one of the rites. While the design of liwans predates Mohammed, it was the Mamelukes who arranged them in the Cruciform manner, and as in the Sultan Hassan Mosque, advanced this architecture with the addition of a domed Mausolea. However, this Mausolea is empty, for Sultan Hassan died several years prior to its completion.
Structurally from the outside, the Mosque is very impressive, holding its own with its impressive cornice and the protruding verticals of its facade, even though it stands in the shadows of the massive Citadel. As one enters the Mosque from Sharia el Qalaa, there is an impression of height, especially from the towering doors decorated in a Mameluke fashion. Even during the Mameluke era in Cairo, building space was at a premium. Thus the outer walls are somewhat askew, in order to fit the available lot, but these designers had a wonderful way of creating the impression of uniform cubistic effect inside regardless.

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Baybars El-Jashankir Khanqa

The Baybars El-Jashankir Khanqa is the oldest Sufi monastery in Cairo, established around 1310 AD by Baybars el-Jashankir. It was also the first Khanqa built as part of a royal tomb complex. Salah al-Din introduced these structures, along with madrasas, to help combat the Shi'i influence after the Fatimids where ousted. The minaret is unusual for having a revetment of turquoise faience. One enters the complex over a square pharaonic column, with much worn hieroglyphs, through a recessed copper decorated door.
The entrance to the Khanqa is through a traditional bent entrance, typical of military instillations. The Sufis' rooms flank the two liwans, while decorations actually reflect Fatimid motifs.

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El-Ghuri Mausoleum

The El-Ghuri Mausoleum was built around 1504 AD by Sultan Qansuh al-Ghuri. It is distinguishable from his mosque which is on the adjacent corner by its unfinished cupola and a sabil-kuttab. From the vestibule, the funeral chamber is on the right, and to the left is a prayer hall with three liwans evenly distributed around the raised and covered part of a lantern. This was once part of a khanda, where Sufis came to perform the dikr.
The sabil-kuttab is on the front of the mausoleum, and is said to be a fine example of Mameluke architecture. The facade has stone panels atop three latticed bays, and narrows the street at that point. To the south, the minaret of the mosque narrows the street there, so that a "square" is formed between the two structures, and is the site of the silk bazaar. The two structures together, the mausoleum and mosque, have been referred to as one of the most impressive complexes in Cairo. The interior of the sabil-kuttab is highly decorative, with marble floors and ceiling supported by rounded, painted and gilt beams.

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El-Ghuri Mosque

El-Ghuri Mosque, located on the adjacent corner to the Ghuri Mausoleum and built by Sultan Qansuh al-Ghuri in 1504 AD, is typical of the late Mamluk style, except for the minaret. Usually, Mamluk minarets usually have square, octagonal and round layers, but this one is a totally square version. The facade of the building is of bicolored stone. There is a large entrance with a trilobate arch decorated with stalactites, which opens onto a corridor lit by a central well.
Within, there is distinctive polychrome marble dados, flagging laid in geometric patterns and gilt and painted wood paneling. There is a central sunken and open courtyard surrounded by four liwans. The two largest of the liwans have Moorish arches, while the smaller two have raised arches.

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El-Mu'ayyad Mosque (Red Mosque)

Near the southern Bab Zuwayla is El-Mu'ayyad or the Red Mosque, built between 1415 and 1420 AD by Sultan El-Mu'ayyad. It is said that the mosque stands where there was once a prison where Sultan el-Mu'ayyad was incarcerated. He vowed that if he were ever freed, he would construct a mosque to replace this prison. This probably explains the notoriety of the southern gate, where many people were hung, even after the destruction of the prison. There are two minarets which stand astride this southern gate, and offer a panoramic view of Cairo. The entrance to the mosque is framed in red and turquoise, and the brass door itself is inscribed with Sultan Hassan's name and was removed from his medersa. Above the door, there is a carved arabesque and stalactite hood. On either side are Kufic inscriptions which relate to the First Pillar of Islam, and have been translated for us as "There is no god but Allah, and Muhammad is his messenger".
Inside, there is an entrance hall that leads to the tombs of Sultan El-Mu'ayyad and his son. The tomb walls are completely covered with a polychrome marble revetment forming geometric patterns. This leads into the courtyard style mosque, of which the courtyard has been made intp a garden. Incorporated into the walls of the courtyard are blind niches of Persian style arches reminiscent of the Azhar Mosque. In the prayer hall, the ceiling, mihrab and minbar are outstanding, and the pillars are of ancient origin. The mihrab has a very fine marble covered decoration and festooned archstones, while the minbar is decorated with polygonal panels inlaid with mother of pearl and ivory. The pillars are surmounted by two rows of superposed arches which is similar in style to that of the Ommiad mosque in Damascus, where El-Mu'ayyad was governor. Beyond the mosque is a second tomb in which the women of the sultan's family are interred.

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As-Salih Talai Mosque

The As-Salih Talai Mosque was built in 1160 AD by the emir As-Salih Talai who was vizier to the last of the Fatimid caliphs. There are five Persian arches within the freestone facade, which are concealed from the street by mashrabiya panels. These were added about the same time as the minbar inside. Around the interior courtyard the columns supporting the arches of the porticos are surmounted by ancient capitals. In the upper wall of the qibla wall are windows decorated with stained glass and stuccowork. The minbar dates to 1300 AD and is engraved with star motifs.

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El-Ishaqi Mosque

The Emir Qijmas el-Ishaqi was the head of Sultan Qaitbay's stables. In 1480 AD, he had his unusual mosque built on a triangular property, but in cruciform layout. As was common, the mosque is built above shops which occupy the street level. The main mosque is attached to its sabil-kuttab across the street by a second story bridge covered by mashribiyya. The main building is noted for its outstanding workmanship. The entrance contains Koranic inscriptions and an exceptional ablaq marble panel in which leaf forms swirl in black, white and red. Just inside is a square entrance hall with painted wood ceiling surrounded by an epigraphic frieze. There is a latticed window between this room and the mausoleum. The main mosque's carved stone walls and woodwork are outstanding. The qibla is decorated with red and white marble and has beautiful marble floors, while the carved minbar is past inlaid with ivory. The tomb chambers are found through a door in the qiblah wall.

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Aqsunqur or Blue Mosque
The

The Aqsunqur or Blue Mosque, which lies north of the Citadel and close to the Bab Zuwayla, was built by one of al-Nasir Muhammad's Emirs, Shams ad-Din Aqsunqur, in 1346 AD, and is one of Cairo's most notable mosques. While there is blue-Gray marble on the facade, it derives the name "Blue Mosque" from the interior walls, which are covered in isnik blue and turquoise tiles outlined with plant and flower designs. These Ottoman tiles imported from Istanbul and Damascus were added when the structure was restored and modified in 1652 by Ibrahim Aga el-Mustahfizan, who used it for his own tomb. Together with the marble panels and painted ceiling, the interior is very ornate.
The mosque is cruciform in design, with porticos originally covered by groined vaults instead of a wood ceiling. The arches are supported by square and octagonal pillars, which gives it an unusual appearance. It contains a mihrab which is inlaid with polychrome marble and mosaic in soft plum, salmon, gray and green colors. The minbar is the oldest constructed of marble in Cairo, and is inlaid with precious stones. There are three tombs, one each dedicated to Sultan an-Nasir Mohammed, Ibrahim Aga, and Aqsunqur. The minaret offers a good view of the city.

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Sayyida Zeinab Mosque

The patron saint of Cairo is Sayyida Zeinab, granddaughter of the Prophet Mohammed (daughter of Aly Ibn Abu Taleb), and her mosque which houses her shrine is located in the As-Sayyida Zeinab Mosque built originally about the time of the Hussein Mosque. It was renovated in 1549, rebuilt again in 1761 and completely rebuilt again in 1884. The main facade, minaret and cupola are typical of the Mameluke style. The interior is finely decorated with arabesque and inscriptions. It contains a colonnaded prayer hall with a painted wood ceiling and cupola in front of the mihrab. The western mausoleum is topped by a cupola also, supported by a pendentive of stalactites, and the cenotaph is enclosed within a finely worked bronze grille. It should be noted that this is a very popular place of pilgrimage for Muslims.

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El-Hussein Mosque

The El-Hussein Mosque sits on the site of the cemetery of the Fatimid caliphs. It was entirely rebuilt under the khedive Ismail, when the remains of the cemetery were discovered while work was being done on the mosque's foundations. There are forty-four white marble columns that support the wood ceiling. On one side of the mosque is the mausoleum which is the oldest part of the complex, built in 1154 AD and then modified in 1236 AD. In the mausoleum are the remains of El-Hussein. A cupola with a ceiling that is decorated and inlaid with gold surmounts the mausoleum. There are two minarets at the complex. The one on the southwest side is from the same period as the mosque. The other is contemporary in style as is the mausoleum.

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Sabil-kuttab of Abd El-Rahman Katkhuda

Rich patrons during the Ottoman period often built fountains with Koranic schools above the fountain. Katkhuda's fountain-school was built in 1744 AD and is located at the corner at the fork in the street past Qasr Bashtak. The fountain has a cistern that supplies water to a trough for the people. There are realistic floral patterns between the arches that are from Mongol models. Mamluk influences can be seen in the window arches, the stalactite cornice and the corner columns. The lower floor has Syrian tiles that form a picture of the Kabah at Mecca.

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El-Hakim Mosque

El-Hakim Mosque is the second largest Fatimid mosque in Cairo. The mosque was started in 990 AD by the Caliph El-Aziz and was completed in 1013 AD by his son El-Hakim who was the founder of the Egyptian Druze sect. Over its lifetime, the building has served as a prison for captive Crusaders, Napoleon's warehouse, and Salah al-Din's stable. Very little of the original history remains after a restoration by an Ismaili Shi-i sect. The mosque has been encased in marble and only the wooden tie-beams and stucco carvings remain of the original decorations. The minarets were not destroyed as Hakim had them encased in large square buttresses. These minarets are the oldest surviving minarets in Cairo as they stand at the outer walls of the mosque. The bases are original, however the tops were replaced in 1303 AD after an earthquake destroyed the upper stories. The new tops are from the Mamluk period. An interior staircase leads to the city's ramparts and a rampart walk that date from the 12th century.

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Aytmishi Mosque

The Aytmishi Mosque was built in 1383 AD by a member of Sultan Barquq's entourage, Seif ad-Din Aytmish el-Baghasi. Only the first floor of the sabil-kuttab remains as well as a mausoleum and a mosque. The mosque has a single iwan that leads off of a central area. The mausoleum has a small dome that is of the type that is exclusive to Cairo.

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Harem Palace

The Harem Palace was built in 1827 AD and reflects the Levantine style of Mohammed Ali. It was the residence of the royal family until 1874 AD when the government seat was moved to Abdin Palace.
The Harem Palace consisted of three wings and is now used as a military hospital since the time of the British occupation. The tomb of Sheikh Mohammed el-Kahaki stands between the palace and the Suleyman Pasha. This tomb dates from the 16th century. On the left is part of a wall that was built by Salah ad-Din.

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Qanibey Emir Akhur Medersa

The Qanibey Emir Akhur Medersa was built in 1503 AD and is built entirely of stone. The facade overlooks the square and forms a sabil-kuttab, an entrance at the top of a flight of steps and a mausoleum that has a high pitched cupola. The cupola is decorated with geometric and floral motifs. There is a central courtyard that opens up to the sky and four iwan.

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El-Gawhara el-Lala Mosque

The El-Gawhara El-Lala Mosque was built in 1430 AD and is considered small at only 2,000 square feet. The medersa is ingeniously designed and there is a sabil-kuttab. The mausoleum was built to where every inch of spaced has been used.

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Hassan Sadaqa Mausoleum

The Hassan Sadaqa Mausoleum was once part of a complex that was constructed in 1315 AD by its founder Sunqur Saadi and Hassan Sadaqa. A medersa was part of the complex, but no longer exists. There was also a takiya and a ribat or monastery that was recently replaced with a Dervish theater.

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Sheikhu Mosque

The Sheikhu Mosque and khanqa were built between 1349 and 1355 AD by Emir Sheikhu. They stand opposite each other and are absent of any decoration. This absence just amplifies the strength of the architecture. The mosque has the characteristics of both a mosque with iwan and a mosque with porticoes. It has two iwan that have porticoes, and a central courtyard that is open to the sky. In the khanqa is the Emir Abdallah Sabil-Kuttab that was built in 1719 AD. Another sabil-kuttab from earlier this century called the Umm Abbas Sabil-Kuttab, replaced the Sheikhu sabil. The Umm Abbas was built by the mother of the khedive Abbas.

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Taghri Bardi Medersa

A medersa, a sabil-kuttab and a mausoleum comprise this complex that was founded in 1440 AD by Emir Taghri Bardi El-Rumi. The mausoleum is surmounted by an impressive stone cupola and is decorated with interwoven fluting.

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Sangar Salar Mosque and Mausoleum

The Sangar Salar Mosque and Mausoleum was built in 1304 AD and is located to the west of Sarghatmish Medersa. There are two similar mausoleums, one dedicated to the founder of the mosque, Emir Alam ad-Din Sangar el-Gawli and the other to his comrade, Emir Seif ad-Din Salar. There is a staircase that leads to the mausoleums along a corridor and to the mosque. The mosque has a single iwan. The eastern gate of the courtyard opens out into the Qal-at el-Kabch district.

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Qaitbay Medersa

The Qaitbay Medersa was founded by Sultan Qaitbay in 1475 AD, which was one year after the construction of the mausoleum-medersa on which it was based. It is located in a square on the Shari Qal'at ek-Kabch. There are many stalactites and honeycomb decorations especially on the facade and under the balconies on the minaret. There are four iwan and a courtyard that is covered by a wooden ceiling located inside. The wood casing of the mihrab has carved polygonal stars. There are two wooden benches in front of the Yussef Bey Sabil-Kuttab, which was built in 1634 AD, that are the favorite resting place for peddlers. Opposite the sabil is the mosque that was founded by Sultan el-Malik el-Zahir Jaqmaq and is named after Lajin el-Seifi who rebuilt the mosque in 1449 AD.

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Christian Churches and Monuments

Hanging Church

The Hanging Church (El Muallaqa, Sitt Mariam, St Mary) derives its name from its location on top of the southern tower gate of the old Babylon fortress with its nave suspended above the passage. The church was first built, in Basilcan style, near the end of the 4th century. However, at that time it is unlikely that the church would have been constructed in this location. In fact, we know that it was destroyed in the ninth century and later rebuilt, after which in 1039 AD, it is known that the Coptic patriarchate moved from Alexandria and settled in this church. The church consists of a courtyard surrounded by two wings with pointed arches, and a long aisle lined with marble columns. In the eastern wing, there are three altars (haykals) with beautiful ebony and ivory inlaid wooden screens. The center alter is dedicated to Christ, while the left sanctuary is dedicated to St. George and the right to St John the Baptist. On the right wall of the church as you enter are many ancient icons, including a 10th century icon of the Virgin and Child, Egyptian faces and Byzantine crowns.

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Church of Abu Serga (St. Sergius)

The Church of Abu Serga (St. Sergius) is another 4th century church, dedicated to two early martyrs and supposedly built on the spot where the Holy Family, Joseph, Mary and the infant Christ, rested at the end of their journey into Egypt. They may have lived here while Joseph worked at the fortress. However, the church is dedicated to Sergius and Bacchus, who were soldier-saints that were martyred during the 4th century in Syria by Maximilan. The original building was probably done during the 5th century. It was burned during the fire of Fustat during the reign of Marwan II around 750 AD. It was then restored during the 8th century, and has been rebuilt and restored constantly since medieval times, however it is still considered to be a model of the early Coptic churches. Again, the most precious and ancient of the icons are on the southern wall. A vast central hall is divided into three naves by two rows of pilasters. In much the same style as the Hanging Church, Abu Serga has 12 unique columns decorated with paintings of the Apostles. This church resembles religious structures in Constantinople and Rome. The main attraction, situated directly under the choir, is the crypt. This crypt contains the remains of the original church where tradition says the Holy Family lived. Originally this crypt was the sanctuary, but became the crypt after the larger church was built. Being tied to the Holy Family, the Church of Abu Serga continues to be a draw for Christian visitors.

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St. Barbara's Church (Sitt Barbara)

Saint Barbara's Church (Sitt Barbara) was originally constructed between the 4th and 5th centuries. Legend says that Barbara was the daughter of a pagan merchant. She was converted to Christianity during the 3rd century and spread the gospel with her friend Juliana. She tried to convert her father to Christianity and for this he tried to have her killed. He failed at his own attempts and so turned her over to Nicodemia who was the Roman governor. He had the two friends tortured and then murdered. For this, the church which was dedicated to St. Cyrus and St. John, is now known as the Church of Saint Barbara. The chapel still contains her remains.
The church was built at the beginning of the Islamic era on the eastern side of the fort. The church burned during the Fustat fire of 750 AD but was restored during the 11th century. For a time period it was not maintained until, during the Fatimid period, the church was rebuilt and decorated with attractive inscriptions. The church is designed on the basilican form, but the decorations that once lined the interior, have been lost. However, there remains some remarkable wood paneling. There are ancient chapels in the north wing that are dedicated to Cyrus and John. There is a convent which comprises several buildings, including a school built by the well known architect, Ramesses Wissa Wassef. During the 15th century, this church was described as the most beautiful as well as the largest church of the time.

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Church of Saint George (Keniset Mari Girgis)

The current Church of Saint George (Keniset Mari Girgis) was originally built in 684 AD by Athanasius, who was a wealthy scribe. It was rebuilt in 1857 AD. It is best known for the Qaa el-Arsan (wedding chamber), a masterpiece of design and decoration. This chamber dates from the 4th century and was reserved for Coptic marriage ceremonies.

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Greek Church of Saint George (Mari Girgis)

The Greek Church of St. George is one of the few round churches still in existance in the East, formed from it's placement atop a rounded Roman tower. There is a long set of steps that lead up to the church. The steps are built on the outer wall and the Roman towers. As you ascend these steps, you will find a relief of St. George and the dragon wrapped around the outer brickwork of the tower. The church had been burned many times, but still has some of its beautiful stained-glass windows. For centuries, the church alternated between ownership by the Copts and the Greek, but since the 15th century it has remained Greek Orthodox, and the adjoining monastery of St. George is now the seat of the Greek patriarch.

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St. Mary's Church (El-Muallaqa)

El-Muallaqa or St. Mary's Church is said to have been built around the end of the 3rd century or the beginning of the 4th century. The name Muallaqa, which means suspended, comes from the fact that the floor was built on two of the towers of an ancient Roman fortress. They covered the towers with palm trucks and a layer of stone. The main church is thought to have been built between the 5th and 6th centuries with the southeastern section called the "upper church" being added later. The church was destroyed in the 9th century. It was rebuilt in the 11th century and became the seat of the Coptic patriarchate until the 14th century.
It became known to travelers during the 14th and 15th centuries as the "staircase church" because of the twenty-nine steps that lead to the entrance. Inside are four naves with three rows of marble columns. There are also seven sanctuaries of which six are in the two side aisles and one in the Church of St. Mark which is above. In front of the central sanctuary is a pulpit that dates from the 11th century and is supported by fifteen marble columns. On one of the bastions of the fortress is a chapel built for the Ethiopian saint Takla Haymanot. A wooden staircase leads up to this chapel. Inside the church are collections of over one hundred icons of which the oldest dates from the 8th century. The craftsmanship of the iconostases in cedar, ebony and walnut and inlaid with ivory that date from the 10th to the 13th century is incredible.

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Other sites of interest

The Egyptian Antiquities Museum
The Museum of Antiquities

The Egyptian government established the 'Service des Antiques de l'Egypte' in 1835 AD, mainly to halt the plundering of archaeological sites and to arrange the exhibition of the collected artifacts owned by the government. The Azbakiah garden in Cairo was first used as a storage place for these artifacts. The collection was later transferred to another building in the Citadel. In 1858, a museum was prepared at Boulaq, its contents collected by the French archeologist August Mariette. In 1880, the contents of the Boulaq museum were transferred to an annex of the Giza palace of Ismail Pasha, the ruler of Egypt.

This museum hosts over 120,000 exhibits.
Some of the important groups of these objects are:

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Kasr (Qasr) El-Gawhara (Jewel Palace)

Here, Muhammad Ali waited while his forces trapped, and put an end to the Mamluk beys by massacring most of their leaders as they were leaving the Citadel. The Kasr (Qasr) El-Gawhara or Jewel Palace, originally Mohammad Ali Pasha's headquarters, is an example of the best early 19th century Ottoman decoration and architecture. Its collection includes 19th century royal portraits, costumes and furnishings. Constructed in 1814, it includes a small garden leading to a mosque with one of the more interesting eccentricities being the Watch Hall where the shape of a watch has been used to decorate the walls.

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The Beshtak Palace

The Beshtak Palace is notable because of its museum which documents the history of the city of Cairo, and its beautiful Qaa (chamber). On the outside, this palace built by Emir Beshtak in 1334 AD, has unusual windows screened with mashrabiya. But the second floor chamber, with its pointed arches, stained-glass windows and gilt and painted wood paneling distinguish it as one of the most beautiful private chambers of the period.

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Khan el-Khalili Market

Khan el-Khalili, once known as the Turkish bazaar during the Ottoman period, is now usually just called the 'Khan', and the names of it and the Muski market are often used interchangeably to mean either. Named for the great Caravansary, the market was built in 1382 AD by the Emir Djaharks el-Khalili in the heart of the Fatimid City. Together with the al-Muski market to the west, they comprise one of Cairo's most important shopping areas. But more than that, they represent the market tradition which established Cairo as a major center of trade, and at the Khan, one will still find foreign merchants. Perhaps, this vary market was involved in the spice monopoly controlled by the Mamluks, which encouraged the Europeans to search for new routes to the East and led Columbus, indirectly, to discover the Americas. During its early period, the market was also a centre for subversive groups, often subject to raids before the Sultan Ghawri rebuilt much of the area in the early 16th century. Regardless, it was trade which caused Cairo's early wealth, even from the time of the Babylon fort which was a settlement of traders.
This market is situated at one corner of a triangle of markets that go south to Bab Zuwayla and west to Azbakiyyah. The Khan is bordered on the south by al-Azhar Street and on the west by the Muski Market. One of the old original gates guards the entrance to the original courtyard which lies midway down Sikkit al-Badistan (street). On a narrow street leading off al-Badistand, one will find the El-Fishawi Cafe, or Cafe of Mirrors, which is a meeting place for local artists. Egyptian buyers generally shop in the area north of al-Badistan and to the west, where prices may be lower. Better deals for gold and silver are to be found west of the Khan along the "street of the goldsellers", and further on one will find the Brass and Coppersmith Markets.

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The Qaitbay Wakala (indoor market)

The Qaitbay Wakala was built in 1480 AD by Sultan Qaitbay. From the outside, the building displays a regular repetitive facade created by units with a first floor large opening, a mashrabiya panel with a latticed window on top, on the second floor and a group of three windows on the third floor. The first floor is built of stone, while the rest of the building is brick. Within, the sides surround a large courtyard.

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El-Ghuri Wakala (indoor market)

The El-Ghuri Wakala was built in 1504 AD by Sultan Qansuh al-Ghuri as a commerical hotel for spice merchants. The spice merchants would lock themselves and their wares into the rooms on the upper floors. The courtyard served both to board the merchant's animals and as a market.
The external stone facade is impressive, with its uniformity of windows. There are a few small windows on the first floor, but the upper stories of the building have three rows of groupings of three windows of varying design. The last row is covered by mashrabiya panels, each panel being three windows wide. The entrance to the courtyard is via a great door mounted in a trilobate arch. Inside, the building is very regular, with the exception of the first floor, which has wide arcades interesected by a gallery.

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The Abdin Palace

The Abdin Palace is a vast complex on the outskirts of the old city of Cairo. The original construction was ordered by Ismail who wanted to move his government outside of the confines of the Citadel. The original building was of wood, designed by two French engineers, De Curel and Rousseau, but lasted for only ten years prior to being destroyed by fire. The Palace has been rebuilt several times, only to go up in flames again. It also served as the main residence of Muhammad Ali and his family.

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The Geographical Society

The Geographical Society building contains a library (mostly with works in French), a cartographic (map making) collection, along with a series of relief maps of Egypt. Founded by Ismail, the Society acted as a staging point for European explorers who came to search for the sources of the Nile. Later, the Society financed a number of geographers of Egypt.

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The City Gates
One of the city gates

Prior to about 1087 AD, Cairo was not a well fortified city with its sun dried brick walls. That year, Badr ad-Din el-Gamali, the visor of El-Mustansir, employed three Syrian brothers from Edessa to build the three main gateways of the Fatimid wall made of stone which was to provide fortification. These massive gates are called the Bab (gate) el-Futuh, Bab an-Nasr and Bab Zuwaila.
The Bab el-Futuh, or Gate of Conquest consists of a huge vaulted opening carved from a massive block of stone and flanked by two rounded towers. The masonry is considered to be finer than that of the southern gate (Bab Zuwaila). It marks the northern boundary of the old Fatimid City. In past times, the great caravan of pilgrims returned each year from Mecca, entering this gate and making their way to the Citadel. Today, the entrance appears squat, but this is due to the base of the gate being sixteen feet below street level. The interior of the gate is accessible, and one may traverse the wall either on top, or from within to the more eastern Bab al-Nasr.
Bab An-Nasr or the Victory Gate is located near the Khan al-Khalili market and to the east of Bab el-Futuh, and connected with it via either an interior route throughout the Fatimid wall, or atop the wall. Other than its square towers, which were built at the same time as those of Bab el-Futuh, the gate itself is very similar to its eastern counterpart. There is a short inscription on the gate made by Napoleon's army during their occupation.
Bab Zuwayla, sometimes called al-Mitwalli after El Kutb al-Mitwalli by some local inhabitants, defines the southern limits of the Fatimid City, though the city quickly moved beyond this gate. It is named after the al-Zawila, a Berber tribe whose Fatimid soldiers were quartered nearby. It is very similar in design to the other gates, but perhaps has a somewhat richer tradition. Here, the annual pilgrimage departed for Mecca, but here also, many an amir was hanged and Sultan Salim hung the last of the Mamluk sultans, Tumanbey from its entryway. Originally, musicians played every night from atop the gate.

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The Musafirkhana Palace

The Musafirkhana Palace was built between 1779 and 1788 AD in the Ottoman style, and was the birthplace of the khedive Ismail in 1830. Muhammad Ali bought the palace in the early 19th century to use as a guesthouse. The design of the structure is similar to Bayt Suhaymi, but on a more grand scale. Within is a courtyard and as one enters, to the left is a well and saqiya, which was once powered by donkeys. In the main hall with its carved ceiling, there is an inlaid fountain. Many of the rooms are richly decorated with mashribiyya throughout. The second floor haramlik is particularly fine, with marbled panels and a bath with insets of colored glass.

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The Citadel
The Citadel

One of Cairo's most spectacular sights is the Citadel, located on a spur of limestone that had been detached from its parent Moqattam Hills by quarrying. The Citadel began its life not as a great military base of operations, but as the "Dome of the Wind", a pavilion created in 810 AD by Hatim Ibn Hartama, who was then governor. These early governors, not realizing it strategic importance, simply used the pavilion for its view of Cairo. In 1176, Salah ad-Din fortified the area to protect it against attacks by the Crusaders, and since then, it has never been without a military garrison.
In 1218 Sultan al-Kamil, Salah ad-Din's nephew moved his residence to the Citadel, and until the consturction of the Abdin Palace in the mid-19th century, it was the seat of government for the Country of Egypt.
Most of the fortification's interior was built after Salah ad-Din's rule, being added to by almost every invader, some of whom destroyed much of what existed before them. Al Nasir Muhammad leveled most of Salah al-Din's buildings and later Muhamad Ali did the same to the Mamluk structures.
The Citadel actually consists of three main sections, surrounded by their own walls with towers and gates. These consist of the Lower Enclosure (El-Azab), the Northern Enclosure (El-Ankishariya) and the Southern Enclosure which is the Citadel proper (El-Qal'a). The two main gates are on the north (Bab el-Gadid) and south (Bab el-Gabal). Particularly when viewed from the north, the Citadel reveals a very medieval character.
Monuments within the Citadel include the Jewel Palace, the Mohammed Ali Mosque, which dominates the city's skyline, the An-Nasir Mohammed Mosque, the Suleyman Pasha Mosque and the Bab el-Azab.

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Joseph's Well

Joseph's, or Yusif's Well is located in the Citadel near the al-Nasir Mosque. It was constructed by crusade prisoners by order of Salah ad-Din in 1183, to insure the Citadel's water supply in the event of a siege. It plunges 97 feet to the level of the Nile, and water was lifted using two pumping stations. A spiral staircase, with observation windows, winds around the exterior of the well.

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Bab al-Azab

The Bab al-Azab protected the original entrance to the Citadel and was rebuilt in 1754 by Abd el-Rahman Katkhuda, who hung the current brass-bound wooden doors. The gate's notoriety spawns from a single but decisive action by Mohammed Ali, the early 19th century governor of Egypt. When Mohammed Ali came to be ruler of Egypt, the Mameluke factions still controlled much of the country and resisted his authority under their ancient baronial rights. On the excuse of a big celebration for his son Tusun, he invited the leading Mameluke lords to attend, implying that he wanted to come to terms with them. On March 1st, 1811, five hundred Mamelukes chiefs led by Shahin Bey marched in the military procession of Mohammed Ali's celebrations as one of his rearguard contingents. As they rode out of the Citadel down the narrow little hill to the gate of Azab, which opened out into Roumaliya Square, the huge doors of the gate were suddenly slammed shut in front of them, so that they were trapped in a narrow defile with high walls on either side and a detachment of Albanian soldiers behind. There was little chance of escape, as Turkish soldiers high atop the walls poured down a merciless fusillade. In one swoop, Muhammad Ali ended the long domination of the Mamelukes in Egypt.

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Fort Babylon

It has been said that many Cairenes know little about the Fort of Babylon, though certainly the Christians do, because several of their oldest churches are built into or on its walls. These include El-Muallaqa (the Hanging Church) and the Greek Church of St. George. A number of other Coptic churches are nearby. The area is called Old Cairo (Masr el Atika), because this is the oldest part of the city, and the remains of the fort are Cairo's oldest original structure. Indeed, Cairo owes its existence to this fort.
The fort was first built by the Persians in about the sixth century BC, but at that time it was on the cliffs near the river. When the Romans took possession of Egypt, they used the old fort for a while, recognising its strategic importance on the Nile, but because of the problems of water delivery, the Roman Emperor Trajan relocated the fort to its present site, which at that time was nearer to the River. Since then, the Nile's course has moved some 400 yards to the north.
The fort's name has been a matter of controversy. The most dominant view seems to be that the name is derived from a corruption of the ancient Egyptian per-hapi-n-On, which means the House of the Nile of On, which was what the earlier Egyptians called Roda Island. However, it is believed that there was an earlier settlement on this site, and Diodorus tells us that this settlement was populated by prisoners whom Sesostris bought from the Mesopotamian city of Babylon, who named it after their own city.

By the time of the Arab conquest of 640 AD, the fort was expansive with forty foot high outer walls and a moat. It had a very successful port, two nilometers and a canal which linked it with the Red Sea. It was also a Christian stronghold.
Babylon really had two things going for it. First, it was at an ideal location to control traffic and trade along the Nile, and from the Red Sea canal. And it was a refuge for Coptic Christians, who were persecuted by the Roman Christians in Alexandria.

Fort Babylon was never actually the seat of government of Egypt. Until the Arabic conquest, Alexandria had that honor; but certainly the modern capital of Egypt, Cairo grew up around it, and for some years after, Europeans referred to Cairo as Babylon.

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Pont Limun Station

Pont Limun Station was first built in 1856 but was reconstructed in 1892 to the more traditional Arabic style of architecture. The station is the main railway station for Cairo.

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Mahmudiya Medersa

The Mahmudiya Medersa was built between 1567 and 1568 AD by the governor Mahmud Pasha. There are four different facades and an interior that is about 65 feet square. There are two iwan and a long, narrow courtyard. It is located in an area called Midan Salah ad-Din.

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Emir Taz Palace

This palace was built by Emir Taz in 1352 to celebrate his marriage to the Sultan An-Nasir Mohammed's daughter. The palace was greatly modified at the end of the 19th century when it was transformed into the first Egyptian girls' school.

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El-Abar "Zawia"

The El-Abar Zawia was built in 1248 and now forms part of the facade of the Emir Taz Palace. Standing on the corner of the Shari Suyufia and the Shari Qaraqol el-Manshiya, it was originally part of a complex that contained a khanqa and a medersa. Only the mausoleum still remains. Inside are the tombs of Sheikh Ala ad-Din el-Abar and his wife.

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Qizlar Sabil-Kuttab and Rabaa

This complex was constructed in 1618 by Ali Aga Dar el-Saada and consists of a sabil-kuttab that is surrounded entirely by identical bays. These bays each correspond to a rabaa and are pierced at the first floor level by wide openings. On the upper floor the windows are in pairs and are superposed oriel windows.

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Dervish Theater

The Dervish Theater is also known as Sama Khana and was dedicated to the dancing dervishes of the Mawlawiya sect. The building was built during the 19th century but does have some older sections. The remains of the Sunqur Saadi Medersa were found during excavations and had been used as foundations. Inside is a monastery complex and a circular chamber that is huge. The chamber has a special women's gallery that has floral and landscape decorated walls and dome.

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Beit as-Sinnari

The Beit as-Sinnari was built in 1794 by Prince Ibrahim Katkhuda as-Sinnari. The house was built as a residence for the scholars and scientists of the Egypt Expedition's scientific mission. The building is very typical of the Cairene houses of that time. There are several rooms as well as a reception area that are joined by a series of stairways and passages that make up the harem suite. The main reception area overlooks the courtyard and the street. The second reception area on the west looks over the courtyard.

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